Bow Tie Impressions: The Diamond Point Style

The Marlon Gobel Crystal got us thinking about the BowTieBanditz ethos of bow shape hinting at unspoken personal statements. So we're just gonna go ahead and open up this discussion around the unspoken, sometimes softly whispered, language of this gorgeous style.

Some of us BowTieBanditz love the DP Diamond Point bow tie style.

Characterised by the basic shape of the slim-line with added pointy wing-tips, the width of the bow tie generally doesn't extend beyond the outer edges of the collar. Note, though, that the main part of the bow (excluding the points) should still remain within the boundaries of your face to strike a balance.

The DP has been around for years – one of the earliest examples was donned by President Abraham Lincoln himself over 150 years ago.


James Bond, full

President Lincoln, slightly wilted

But, having historically lagged the bat wing and the butterfly in popularity, it has recently enjoyed a resurgence of attention along with the general profile of the bow tie accessory itself.



A coincidence with James Bond becoming a convert to the slightly broader butterfly-based version during Casino Royale (2006)?

Who can say..?

Standing at around 2¼ inches tall, but available in a slimmer (4cm) width, the DP is incredibly versatile. At the last count, it can be tied 5 different ways and, depending on the originating pattern from which it was cut, they will each tie and sit a little differently. The skinny batwing (4cm) is a great basic shape, and the narrower contour seems to have taken on the more contemporary persona. But, mid-batwing and scalloped butterfly bases also work really well. Wide bat and butterfly wing-derived DPs don’t quite work as well and, whether known or unknown to the designer, are more difficult to get right in this style. 

 

Men: Putting it Out There 

Harvey Specter (Gabriel Macht) from 'Suits' ALWAYS gets it right!



From a man's perspective, the DP has been variously described as a “trustworthy choice,” “a more retro look,” giving “additional pizzazz” which, “adds even more personality” and is simply, “the bow tie you can wear to just about any occasion and feel like a million bucks."
Those who wear bow ties every day will almost certainly wear the self-tied. It has also been said that if you want to recreate vintage styling in the ways of men, you must learn the art for yourself. It has been also been said that preferring the pre-tied means that you don't care to learn. But, at BTB, we feel these judgments to be overly harsh.
Sometimes, it's just about choosing the low-stress option!

The pre-tied diamond point is... balance

It has to be said that for those new to the BT Brotherhood, for occasional or Occasion wearers, or for those who need to get out of the house in a hurry, it might be the better option.

The pre-tied diamond point definitely has one thing going for it that the self-tie does not - balance. It implies 'business', in the way that Harvey Specter means business.

A man might desire the diamond-inspired angular shape, but, he might not feel comfortable with the self-tied asymmetry i.e. the forward wings might seem unbalanced by the opposing blunted and pointed ends against the reverse behind.

Traditionally, the bow tie has been associated with geeks and 'thinkers'. Nowadays, that may extend to people who required order in their lives. 
The comfort that may be taken in the more geometrically perfect self-tied DP should not be underestimated. Repetitive touching of an accessory is a common human trait at times of heightened stress and, for men, that can mean the bow tie.

That said, isn't one of the rules of modern fashion 'there are no rules in fashion''? Isn't that a strong underlying reason for the resurgence of the bow tie itself? And what does 'personal style' mean if it isn't personal to you?

Women: "Call and Response"

The woman's perspective is so very, very different! 

“People respond to how we’re dressed, so like it or not this is what you have to do [dress well].”
Harvey Specter, "Suits" 

Women may sub-consciously prefer the alternative. Far from the precision of the pre-tied, the self-tied emphasises a more natural form. In this context, its slight asymmetry, enhanced by the modern cut is peculiarly... masculine. When constructed with contrasting patterns or colours, the DP implies the exciting paradox of ‘business’ or ‘party’. The versatility of a self-tied DP means that the amount of pattern or bright colour vs block or dark colour on display can speak volumes. Depending on the woman, either can be the most intriguing in her response.  

Andre 3000

She might be sub-consciously thinking of the Diamond Point as… seduction. 

What else are the diamond tips for, if not as an enticement? The invitation is implied - that, "This tie may be loosened at will, for the right inducement," and at whatever speed the mood dictates! It most readily conjures up the vision of hanging loosely at the end of the night, signifying that the walls of polite social etiquette have come tumbling down.

DP, right
 

Rimoldi's pin up vs the DP cut

This is not to be confused with the "... brutally classless look..." described by Trunk Club sales VP Michael Barkin, when a man "... unties his bow tie during an event and wears it hanging from his neck... Just take it off!"
It is the style which, with its organic curves and precision points, are reminiscent of a 1940s Betty Grable forties pin up (right).

The choice of different Diamond Point widths allows any man to dress himself up in temptation for a night. Or during the day, come to think of it! However,



Taye Diggs, daytime-ready

The subliminal message works for men of all builds, too!We know that men with a longer, narrower neck should opt for the skinny width, and need to be careful if tempted towards the Jumbo or Southern Colonel styles. Likewise, men with a shorter, wider neck should opt for the broader width and think twice if reaching for the slim line style.
Then, of course, someone like Le Noeud Papillon comes along, who creates the Double Diamond Point:

The equivalent of the Jumbo Butterfly, Le Noeud Papillon  states, "it's hard to say whether it has a genre or whether it has a unique character of it's own which belongs to the year 2014." [LINK]


So, I suppose what we're saying is that the Diamond Point style, as the most versatile, probably matches the more complex man - especially if he is willing to mix and match the pre- and self-tied options during the day or evening. This is what makes the DP one of the more alluring and interesting styles.

 

We shall leave you with this last thought – that the Marlon Gobel Crystal could not have been any other shape and be so perfectly captivating.

It had to be a Diamond Point!

 

Quote: “Classic evolves but doesn’t age. Classic isn’t a style, yet classic is never out of style." - Mr. B's [http://bartlettstudio.com/projects/diamond-point-bow-tie/]

The Series will continue with: the Bat wing, the Butterfly wing, the Jumbo, the Club Round and the Southern Colonel.

Ethos Of The V&A Museum... In A Marlon Gobel Bow Tie!

The tweet read,

"Is this how Marilyn M felt about diamonds? Dazzling chunky Swarovski crystal diamond point bow tie by Marlon Gobel!

To which the Gobel team replied,

"Diamonds can be a guy's best friend..."

This was great! Not only had this designer the great taste to re-create our favourite accessory in a completely unique way, but they had a sense of humour too!

The Marlon Gobel Swarovski Crystal Bow Tie

We BowTieBanditz LOVE this bow tie. The item itself has not been tampered with or re-invented - it is basically an example of the pre-tied style.

But, what a way to out-innovate the most innovative examples of contemporary twists on traditional attire!

In recent years, as men's fashion has really come into it's own, we have seen paper bow ties, wooden bow ties, bow ties in leather and suede. We have seen fabric and leather bow ties, and bow ties with metal studs, swathed in lace or encrusted with pearls or gemstones, including crystals. Non-fabric crystal bow ties do exist, but they are usually brooches, necklaces, pins, charms or pendants.

In 2012, Marlon Gobel produced a unique product for his New York Fall Fashion Week Show "The Heist", which took its inspiration from 'Criminals with Cool' - Bonne & Clyde, Thomas Crown and The Krays.

"The Heist" NYFW Fall 2012

Flamboyant, yet classy, this is a full-sized, fully functional bowtie made from peerless Swarovski crystal elements, created to be worn around the neck with fabric strapping and a secure clasp arrangement. Initially, just 8 were made and featured in the 2012 Fall show.

We're not sure who nabbed the 8th one, either!

Later that year, American Vogue's Hamish Bowles donned one as he attended the 2012 CFDA* Awards (the Oscars of Fashion). But, just this weekend past, one showed up on US TV, worn by an American hero - former Olympic figure skater Johnny G Weir.

 

This got us thinking that this Swarovski crystal bow tie is so much more than it seems!

 

Model, close-up

Visualising a unique design concept

Yes, it is a traditional fashion accessory which, in itself, is enjoying a resurgence in popularity; It is a beautiful piece of gemstone jewellery; It is a wonderful example of contemporary jewellery; It is a remarkable feat of engineering which gives a humorous, if not inevitable, nod to the diamond point tie style, which is also enjoying a bit of a comeback; It is an exclusive and probably hugely expensive item and, as such, deserves to be preserved in perpetuity as an example of all of the above!

When we considered it from this perspective, the obvious question was,

why does the Marlon Gobel Swarovski Crystal Bow Tie not occupy one of the hallowed display cases in the Victoria and Albert Museum?
 

Specifically, the recently refurbished William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery - yes, they of the Bolly champagne dynasty. It occupies rooms 91-93 on the first floor of the V&A museum, and a visit is a profoundly moving experience.

The Exhibition itself tells the 800 year old story of European jewellery from Ancient Greece to the present, and is packed with millions of carats worth of precious and semi-precious gemstones. That this is manifest in the form of over 3000 jewels should tell you just how mind-boggling some of those jewels are!  And there is a wonderful mezzanine section where men's military and civilian dress ornaments are displayed.

Examples of every known gemstone as you enter the Gallery. It's bigger than it looks!

As a consequence of a 4-year refurbishment by Eva Jiricna Architects Ltd., the lighting of the space and casements were transformed to become 'invisible', allowing the gemstones to sparkle without becoming blinding. The casements are now equipped with state-of-the-art fibre optics on the upper outer sides and directional LEDs line the internal case ceilings. The jewels are vertically mounted with an almost imperceptible slant towards the source so that, whilst being optimally lit from the front, they refract the 'invisible' light as near to perfectly as possible... glinting and winking hypnotically, and creating a mood that is dark and dramatic.

Seeing how fabulous these bow ties look with formal attire, I can picture one perfectly placed in an environment like this, which would lend the one thing potentially missing from the cool crystal itself - the possibility of seduction implied by satin and silk.


The Gallery in normalised lighting

The V&A prides itself on being, "... the world's largest museum of decorative arts and design..", keen to acquire masterpieces; showcase a detailed chronological survey of jewellery in Europe; promote the meaning and making of jewellery, as well as various manufacturing techniques.

They have also declared that, "We intend to acquire objects with documented designers, makers or patrons, and which incorporate innovative design or use of material... (including) jewellery in paper, acrylic and titanium, from jewels by the leading jewellery houses of Paris, London and New York... by an international selection of contemporary makers. The gallery explored how jewels have been not only at the centre of fashion, but of the deepest human emotions..." [Link 2] I think we can agree that most people who wear them, have a deeply emotional connection with their bow tie or their huge Swarovski crystals. Perhaps most encouragingly, the V&A state that, "... Adding to the collections of jewellery and gold boxes and watches by purchase and gift is a priority..."

The proof of it is that whilst Hamish Bowles proudly displayed his crystal bow tie on the CFDA red carpet, V&A Senior Curator of the Metalwork Collection, Dr. Richard Edgcumbe, acquired a pair of white gold, micro-set diamond earrings from the Heritage collection by David Morris, the London Jeweller.

The V&A has also forged strong links with the contemporary fashion world and with Swarovski itself. In November 2004, the museum hosted a series of 5 Fashion in Motion: Runway Rocks catwalk shows. Specially-commissioned "Ultimate Runway Jewellery" pieces were created from the design amalgamation of fashion, body ornament and jewellery, innovating with crystal.

Fashion in Motion Jenny Packham.

 

In our opinion, this is an obvious acquisition for the V&A!

 

Acknowledgments: With thanks to Marlon Gobel for their input and co-operation.

 

*CFDA - Council of Fashion Designers of America

   

NYFW Fall 2012 Show: Marlon Gobel "The Heist"

Reviewing Big Bow Tie News of 2014

As BowTieBanditz, we love the dickey bow – specifically, the bow tie worn with a dickey dirt (“shirt” in Cockney rhyming slang), and not to be confused with ribbons or “… brown paper packages tied up with string”. 

The natural offspring of the cravat, the bow tie has been with us since the beginning of the 19^th century – in and out of style but always associated with class.

Think about it!

An outfit might have the hat, the jacket, the pants, the shirt and have a little something to say. But, add a bow tie and you ARE suave and sophisticated, learned and intelligent… something special!

As far back as 2010, the 11th Doctor coined the phrase, "Bow ties are cool!" (Bow Ties Are Cool!) and, as if he could see the future (!), slowly, over the next 4 years, the bow tie has regained it's place in the world of the fashion accessory and rocked!

Leading men’s fashion magazine GQ and internet news provider The Huffington Post led waves of numerous bloggers declaring that the 11^th Doctor was right. And fashion houses from the high end of Lanvin and Gucci through to small start-ups have responded in kind.

There was a strong lead-in from 2013 with Blogger “Beau” Brummell's Bow Tie History affirming that not only was the accessory back in the lives of men, but that women were following in the über glamorous shadow chic of Marlene Dietrich, Audrey Hepburn and Princess Diana and re-joining the fashion movement too - Rihanna, Drew Barrymore, Janelle Monáe, Kloe Kardashian, Diane Kruger and Lady Gaga (click number to follow link to the original article 2)!

Janelle Monae re-creates an iconic Marlene Dietrich pose

The late Princess Diana, ahead of her time!

With an infusion of Sporting Cool in November from across the Atlantic, news broke that US basketball superstar Dwyane “D-Wade” Wade was collaborating on an accessory line with The Tie Bar, which included 26 silk bowties. Select pieces of florals, patterns, paint-splattered camo’s, muted block colours and plaids previewed at the end of that month, with the remainder premiering in time for Christmas 2013 (click number to follow link to the original article 3). 

2014 began by The GQ Eye's Juan DeLeon piling on bowtie appeal with Idris Elba pictured in a classic black slim line in January and a little flutter on twitter. 

Lanvin

Alexander Olch

The piece was accompanied by mainly daily-wear dickies - interesting diamond points and batwings,  plaids, muted block colours and patterns from Alexander Olch, Paul Stuart, AMI, Drake's, The Hill-Side, The Tie Bar, J Crew and Band of Outsiders. Two evening wear ties in classic textured black also featured from Lanvin and Ralph Lauren (click number to follow link to the original article 4)

 

12 year old Moziah Bridges
poses with a selection of Mo's Bows

A few days later, news that 12 year-old businessman Moziah Bridges built his Mo's Bows empire worth $150,000 after building on his personal sense of style, penchant for the bow tie and wanting to make the world fun and colourful since he was 9 years old!

The Gentle Manuals Jennifer Samuel produced Bow Ties 101: An Introduction to Bow Ties in early February (click number to follow link to the original article 5) with a history lesson, a distinction between self-tied/pre-tied and clip-on, sizing advice, a step-by-step How-To and, perhaps the most essential, a shaping guide. 

In a BowTieBanditz World, size and shape more consistently define your personal statement rather than colour and pattern.

July was the month that 10 Ways To Rock A Bow Tie (click number to follow link to original article 6), courtesy of United Arrows, Japan, clearly agreed the BTB Ethic, stating, "The classic neckwear piece is the easiest way to add singular personality to your everyday rigs." 10 ways contrasted neutrals vs patterns/prints for novices; infinite jacket options - denim, sports, suit; ensemble focus - dramatic bow tie with subdued shirt/jacket or vice versa; varying your signature shape; mixing stripes and spots. Featured brands were Todd Snyder, Band of Outsiders, Steven Alan, Bespoken, Alexander Olch, The Tie Bar, J Crew and United Arrows themselves.

Favourited by United Arrows, Japan

Jupe by Jackie was July's GQ Editor's Pick (click number to follow link to original article 7). A champion of the detail so important to Pitti Uomo, Jackie Villevoye not only wears the hell out of a bow tie, but produces works of art with her hand-embroidered pieces.

Signature fine embroidery from Jupe by Jackie

     Bow Tie Summer Fun

Men Style Fashion's Gracie Opulanza then suggested Bow Tie – Stay Cool & Wear Them In Summer? (click number to follow link to original article 8). She was completely inspired by the range of colour and style becoming increasingly available to reflect personality and potentially to be worn by women too! Metallics, florals, cheques... by London Liberty and Dolce and Gabbana amongst others.

Monties of Chicago wood grain with fabric

The Huffington Post's Nick Norton introduced the one-ounce wooden bow tie by Monties of Chicago in August during the lead up to the most important day of the year for BowTieBanditz and like-minded Brethren. Founder Montgomery St. Peter, "... combines the resilience and charm of wood with the versatility of fabric..." Ten styles cleverly marry the linseed oil-finished wood grain "wings" of  black-stained cherry, bamboo, Indian rose, Mora, Bubinga, Katalox, Bolivian Rose, Black Plum, Zebra, and Walnut to a central fabric "knot" (click number to follow link to original article 9).

 August 28th, National Bow Tie Day (USA), saw the 2nd birthday of the official website (click on the number to visit the site 10) featuring the 11th Doctor's maxim, containing 'fun facts' and tributes to such great American bow tie connoisseurs as Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Jerry Lewis, Humphrey Bogart, Colonel Sanders and Charlie Chaplin.  

The rest of the year saw bloggers, tweeters and start-ups such as US-based Bow Tie Club, BoTyZ.com, Silent Designs, North Country Bow Ties, J'Sphë Bow Ties, Empire Bow Ties , The Whatknot, Boots and Bow Ties, Carolina Cotton Bow Ties, Complete Bow Ties (textured wooden ties) King Kravate, the Bow Tie Afficionado, the Bowed Tie, Mark Reeves and UK-based Bowtieclub, BowTieBanditz really gain momentum and join the more established The Tie Bar, Lazyjack Press, Mrs Bow Tie, Mule Ties, Boldties, OoOTIE Bow Ties, Ella Bing Bow Ties, Beau Ties Ltd. and Bow Tie Cause.

And what better way to end 2014 than with rumours abound that Elba, Idris Elba, could be gracing the big screen as a global BowTieBanditz Icon, when Bond 26 comes around...

So, check back with us as we do a monthly roundup of Bow Tie News in 2015.