Ethos Of The V&A Museum... In A Marlon Gobel Bow Tie!

The tweet read,

"Is this how Marilyn M felt about diamonds? Dazzling chunky Swarovski crystal diamond point bow tie by Marlon Gobel!

To which the Gobel team replied,

"Diamonds can be a guy's best friend..."

This was great! Not only had this designer the great taste to re-create our favourite accessory in a completely unique way, but they had a sense of humour too!

The Marlon Gobel Swarovski Crystal Bow Tie

We BowTieBanditz LOVE this bow tie. The item itself has not been tampered with or re-invented - it is basically an example of the pre-tied style.

But, what a way to out-innovate the most innovative examples of contemporary twists on traditional attire!

In recent years, as men's fashion has really come into it's own, we have seen paper bow ties, wooden bow ties, bow ties in leather and suede. We have seen fabric and leather bow ties, and bow ties with metal studs, swathed in lace or encrusted with pearls or gemstones, including crystals. Non-fabric crystal bow ties do exist, but they are usually brooches, necklaces, pins, charms or pendants.

In 2012, Marlon Gobel produced a unique product for his New York Fall Fashion Week Show "The Heist", which took its inspiration from 'Criminals with Cool' - Bonne & Clyde, Thomas Crown and The Krays.

"The Heist" NYFW Fall 2012

Flamboyant, yet classy, this is a full-sized, fully functional bowtie made from peerless Swarovski crystal elements, created to be worn around the neck with fabric strapping and a secure clasp arrangement. Initially, just 8 were made and featured in the 2012 Fall show.

We're not sure who nabbed the 8th one, either!

Later that year, American Vogue's Hamish Bowles donned one as he attended the 2012 CFDA* Awards (the Oscars of Fashion). But, just this weekend past, one showed up on US TV, worn by an American hero - former Olympic figure skater Johnny G Weir.

 

This got us thinking that this Swarovski crystal bow tie is so much more than it seems!

 

Model, close-up

Visualising a unique design concept

Yes, it is a traditional fashion accessory which, in itself, is enjoying a resurgence in popularity; It is a beautiful piece of gemstone jewellery; It is a wonderful example of contemporary jewellery; It is a remarkable feat of engineering which gives a humorous, if not inevitable, nod to the diamond point tie style, which is also enjoying a bit of a comeback; It is an exclusive and probably hugely expensive item and, as such, deserves to be preserved in perpetuity as an example of all of the above!

When we considered it from this perspective, the obvious question was,

why does the Marlon Gobel Swarovski Crystal Bow Tie not occupy one of the hallowed display cases in the Victoria and Albert Museum?
 

Specifically, the recently refurbished William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery - yes, they of the Bolly champagne dynasty. It occupies rooms 91-93 on the first floor of the V&A museum, and a visit is a profoundly moving experience.

The Exhibition itself tells the 800 year old story of European jewellery from Ancient Greece to the present, and is packed with millions of carats worth of precious and semi-precious gemstones. That this is manifest in the form of over 3000 jewels should tell you just how mind-boggling some of those jewels are!  And there is a wonderful mezzanine section where men's military and civilian dress ornaments are displayed.

Examples of every known gemstone as you enter the Gallery. It's bigger than it looks!

As a consequence of a 4-year refurbishment by Eva Jiricna Architects Ltd., the lighting of the space and casements were transformed to become 'invisible', allowing the gemstones to sparkle without becoming blinding. The casements are now equipped with state-of-the-art fibre optics on the upper outer sides and directional LEDs line the internal case ceilings. The jewels are vertically mounted with an almost imperceptible slant towards the source so that, whilst being optimally lit from the front, they refract the 'invisible' light as near to perfectly as possible... glinting and winking hypnotically, and creating a mood that is dark and dramatic.

Seeing how fabulous these bow ties look with formal attire, I can picture one perfectly placed in an environment like this, which would lend the one thing potentially missing from the cool crystal itself - the possibility of seduction implied by satin and silk.


The Gallery in normalised lighting

The V&A prides itself on being, "... the world's largest museum of decorative arts and design..", keen to acquire masterpieces; showcase a detailed chronological survey of jewellery in Europe; promote the meaning and making of jewellery, as well as various manufacturing techniques.

They have also declared that, "We intend to acquire objects with documented designers, makers or patrons, and which incorporate innovative design or use of material... (including) jewellery in paper, acrylic and titanium, from jewels by the leading jewellery houses of Paris, London and New York... by an international selection of contemporary makers. The gallery explored how jewels have been not only at the centre of fashion, but of the deepest human emotions..." [Link 2] I think we can agree that most people who wear them, have a deeply emotional connection with their bow tie or their huge Swarovski crystals. Perhaps most encouragingly, the V&A state that, "... Adding to the collections of jewellery and gold boxes and watches by purchase and gift is a priority..."

The proof of it is that whilst Hamish Bowles proudly displayed his crystal bow tie on the CFDA red carpet, V&A Senior Curator of the Metalwork Collection, Dr. Richard Edgcumbe, acquired a pair of white gold, micro-set diamond earrings from the Heritage collection by David Morris, the London Jeweller.

The V&A has also forged strong links with the contemporary fashion world and with Swarovski itself. In November 2004, the museum hosted a series of 5 Fashion in Motion: Runway Rocks catwalk shows. Specially-commissioned "Ultimate Runway Jewellery" pieces were created from the design amalgamation of fashion, body ornament and jewellery, innovating with crystal.

Fashion in Motion Jenny Packham.

 

In our opinion, this is an obvious acquisition for the V&A!

 

Acknowledgments: With thanks to Marlon Gobel for their input and co-operation.

 

*CFDA - Council of Fashion Designers of America

   

NYFW Fall 2012 Show: Marlon Gobel "The Heist"