BTB January News Round Up

Well, that's the first month of 2015 over and, even though it's gone so fast, we've managed to keep up with what's been happening in the Bow Tie world.

Missed From December 2014 were The Guardian's Fashion Hit List guide to choosing the colour of a bow tie to fit the occasion (Link); The Art of Bowtie - a piece on Jeremy Michael Calhoun, who is an artist with an interest in fashion, expressed through his collection of bow tie designs (Link); and an inspirational bow tie-related story, which suggested that Newark Central High School's newest tradition in donning bow ties once a week is having a massive cultural and social impact on their students: promoting a professional attitude with their attention to grooming (Link). Bow Ties - stylish and inspiring!


L-R: Newark Central High's Atkinson,
Smith and Vines continue a new tradition
and a new attitude

JM Calhoun's art-inspired bow tie range

January dawned.

We discovered that CBBC seem to be encouraging the next generation of English Gentleman bow tie designers when we came across The Friday Download's "How to Make a Bow Tie" (Link). We applaud them for promoting the bow tie "... goes with absolutely anything..." credo that we BowTieBanditz love!

Next, we entered into a little twanter (twitter banter???) with the good sports over at 2Paragraphs, who used their two-paragraph reporting limit to comment that bowtie-wearing Canadian soccer player Jordan Harvey "... looks better without the bowtie..." at his wedding (Link)! We couldn't have any hating on a potential BowTieBanditz Brother and duly tweeted so. They subsequently decided that, "... he looks amazingly different without it." We accepted their 're-assessment' as nicely done!

The Detroit News did a nice piece on Bethany Shorb, principal designer and owner at Cyberoptix, who hand-make our beloved accessory and other neckwear and is helping to re-write the economic history of Detroit by being based in the Eastern Market (Link). Go Cyberoptix!

Iian Mull's BT Line, new for January '15

In the face of the sometimes overwhelming bow tie tradition, designers continue to innovate: Beauhawk designer Iian Mull is subscribing to the new twist on the bow tie, developing two contrasting fabrications to allow the wings to contrast with the knot, the effect of which can also be reversed (Link).

Nice!

Things We Weren't Too Sure About...

Whilst knowing that our BowTieBanditz hearts lie with couture, we couldn't help noticing this polyester boy's bow tie at the knockdown price of £1.00 at Matalan (reduced from £3.00, Link). And then there came... Incredibeard! But only because Isahia Webb chose to celebrate the first Tuesday of 2015 as Bow Tie Tuesday... and fashion his beard into what could turn out to be a permanent accessory! Follow the Link to see for yourselves! And lastly, we discovered that Vladivostok, a bow-tie designer, launched a new line of jumpers (Link). Maybe it's because we wish there was a better word than 'jumper'. And, no, 'sweater' is way worse! Maybe we'll have to research the origin of the name...




Mr Churchill

Bow Tie News seemed to slow down as January progressed until GQ Style: Personal Style did their tribute to Winston Churchill on the 50th anniversary of his death (Link).This, of course, included his love of bow ties as supplied by @Turnbull_Asser . Do check out their Churchill Collection as they pay homage to one of the many greats they have dressed for decades.

In the meantime, we discovered some great things out there. On both sides of the Atlantic!

 

Designers and Retailers we Discovered:



Tickler's of London

Tickler's of London:
Makers of stunning bespoke bow ties in a variety of styles colours and block contrasts for a variety of occasions.
Follow @TicklersLondon

Nottingham Leaver's Lace by Marwood

Marwood:
Based in London and makers of the exquisite Nottingham Leaver's Lace neckties and bow ties.

Follow @marwoodlondon 

The Crystal by Marlon Gobel

Marlon Gobel:
You can't have failed to have notice our love affair with the Crystal Diamond Point bowtie created by Marlon Gobel for his NY Fall 2012 Fall The Heist show.
We started our twitter #CrystalBowTieForVAExhibition Campaign and contacted the office of the Curator of the Victoria and Albert Museum Metalworks Division, who deal with Jewellery. They loved our article (Link) and passed it on to the Boss and the V&A Press Office.

We had an email from the Curator this week forwarding an email we'd thought might never come, but which simply got lost:

We hope it's a non-committal way of saying he'll look into it, so that we might be able to report the campaign a total success in the future. Do keep tweeting the campaign!
Follow @MarlonGobel.

The Black Watch by Smart Turnout

Smart Turnout:
Based in London and purveyors of possibly the most comprehensive collection of club, clan, corps and other member's bow ties in existence.
Truly outstanding!
Follow @SmartTurnout


Beautiful wooden bow ties by Willow & Warson

Willow & Warson:

With outlets in Devon ,Bristol and London, this partnership make probably the most beautiful wooden bow ties - full of character in comparison to some other wooden bow ties. We will be catching up with them later in the year to get their full story.

Follow @willowandwarson

 

 

Bow Tie Eye

We want to get our Bow Tie Eye out and about, snapping you BowTieBanditz doing YOU on the streets of London, and feature any pictures you send us from there and everywhere else! Any time, any occasion!

From these, we want to do a small write up on our Pick of the Pics. For January, it's EASY!

We attended the British Urban Film Festival's screening of Selma at the Genesis Cinema in Stepney on January 22nd. There, amongst more conventionally tuxedoed and bow-tied gents, we came across Mr Cee, a comedian and BowTieBandit who loves the accessory for evening formal and informal wear, but rarely for day wear.

January BTB Pick of the Pics
Mr Cee, the Comedian

This is an absolutely stand-out look!

He told us that he had been looking for something specific in colour and texture for his bow tie choice for the evening. He searched and searched and could find nothing in a bow tie design that satisfied. He decided to make his own and went looking for fabrics.
Eventually, he came across a midnight navy blue silk necktie in Luton's TKMaxx store and immediately his vision clicked. He envisioned that he could create this wonderful chunky butterfly from an adapted necktie...
We tweeted his pictures the day after and posed a twitter challenge for you all to try and guess what was special about it. We wanted to reveale the answer in our Round up. But, DJ OhSoBlessed (@missBlessingZ from Manchester's Radio Diamond) spotted it at once and the two engaged in a bit of twanter. What a great eye!

Mr Cee's chunky Butterfly hand-tied from a necktie

The beautiful silk weave gives the impression of texture, which perfectly complements the Pringle jacket, patterned with palest blue spots and dark blue circles and geometrics against cream wool; the blue and white micro-check cotton shirt; and the midnight navy blue Zara cotton trousers. I think you'd agree, Mr Cee has taken the self-tied concept to a whole new level and has carried this look off with style.
He certainly deserves to be the sole feature on our Bow Tie Eye and our January Pick of the Pics! Follow him at @MrCeeComedian.

So, that was January 2015's BTB News!

Until our next post, check out our favourites on Pinterest:
Charles Olive
Plum Pretty Sugar
Antonio Centano

 

Bow Tie Impressions: The Diamond Point Style

The Marlon Gobel Crystal got us thinking about the BowTieBanditz ethos of bow shape hinting at unspoken personal statements. So we're just gonna go ahead and open up this discussion around the unspoken, sometimes softly whispered, language of this gorgeous style.

Some of us BowTieBanditz love the DP Diamond Point bow tie style.

Characterised by the basic shape of the slim-line with added pointy wing-tips, the width of the bow tie generally doesn't extend beyond the outer edges of the collar. Note, though, that the main part of the bow (excluding the points) should still remain within the boundaries of your face to strike a balance.

The DP has been around for years – one of the earliest examples was donned by President Abraham Lincoln himself over 150 years ago.


James Bond, full

President Lincoln, slightly wilted

But, having historically lagged the bat wing and the butterfly in popularity, it has recently enjoyed a resurgence of attention along with the general profile of the bow tie accessory itself.



A coincidence with James Bond becoming a convert to the slightly broader butterfly-based version during Casino Royale (2006)?

Who can say..?

Standing at around 2¼ inches tall, but available in a slimmer (4cm) width, the DP is incredibly versatile. At the last count, it can be tied 5 different ways and, depending on the originating pattern from which it was cut, they will each tie and sit a little differently. The skinny batwing (4cm) is a great basic shape, and the narrower contour seems to have taken on the more contemporary persona. But, mid-batwing and scalloped butterfly bases also work really well. Wide bat and butterfly wing-derived DPs don’t quite work as well and, whether known or unknown to the designer, are more difficult to get right in this style. 

 

Men: Putting it Out There 

Harvey Specter (Gabriel Macht) from 'Suits' ALWAYS gets it right!



From a man's perspective, the DP has been variously described as a “trustworthy choice,” “a more retro look,” giving “additional pizzazz” which, “adds even more personality” and is simply, “the bow tie you can wear to just about any occasion and feel like a million bucks."
Those who wear bow ties every day will almost certainly wear the self-tied. It has also been said that if you want to recreate vintage styling in the ways of men, you must learn the art for yourself. It has been also been said that preferring the pre-tied means that you don't care to learn. But, at BTB, we feel these judgments to be overly harsh.
Sometimes, it's just about choosing the low-stress option!

The pre-tied diamond point is... balance

It has to be said that for those new to the BT Brotherhood, for occasional or Occasion wearers, or for those who need to get out of the house in a hurry, it might be the better option.

The pre-tied diamond point definitely has one thing going for it that the self-tie does not - balance. It implies 'business', in the way that Harvey Specter means business.

A man might desire the diamond-inspired angular shape, but, he might not feel comfortable with the self-tied asymmetry i.e. the forward wings might seem unbalanced by the opposing blunted and pointed ends against the reverse behind.

Traditionally, the bow tie has been associated with geeks and 'thinkers'. Nowadays, that may extend to people who required order in their lives. 
The comfort that may be taken in the more geometrically perfect self-tied DP should not be underestimated. Repetitive touching of an accessory is a common human trait at times of heightened stress and, for men, that can mean the bow tie.

That said, isn't one of the rules of modern fashion 'there are no rules in fashion''? Isn't that a strong underlying reason for the resurgence of the bow tie itself? And what does 'personal style' mean if it isn't personal to you?

Women: "Call and Response"

The woman's perspective is so very, very different! 

“People respond to how we’re dressed, so like it or not this is what you have to do [dress well].”
Harvey Specter, "Suits" 

Women may sub-consciously prefer the alternative. Far from the precision of the pre-tied, the self-tied emphasises a more natural form. In this context, its slight asymmetry, enhanced by the modern cut is peculiarly... masculine. When constructed with contrasting patterns or colours, the DP implies the exciting paradox of ‘business’ or ‘party’. The versatility of a self-tied DP means that the amount of pattern or bright colour vs block or dark colour on display can speak volumes. Depending on the woman, either can be the most intriguing in her response.  

Andre 3000

She might be sub-consciously thinking of the Diamond Point as… seduction. 

What else are the diamond tips for, if not as an enticement? The invitation is implied - that, "This tie may be loosened at will, for the right inducement," and at whatever speed the mood dictates! It most readily conjures up the vision of hanging loosely at the end of the night, signifying that the walls of polite social etiquette have come tumbling down.

DP, right
 

Rimoldi's pin up vs the DP cut

This is not to be confused with the "... brutally classless look..." described by Trunk Club sales VP Michael Barkin, when a man "... unties his bow tie during an event and wears it hanging from his neck... Just take it off!"
It is the style which, with its organic curves and precision points, are reminiscent of a 1940s Betty Grable forties pin up (right).

The choice of different Diamond Point widths allows any man to dress himself up in temptation for a night. Or during the day, come to think of it! However,



Taye Diggs, daytime-ready

The subliminal message works for men of all builds, too!We know that men with a longer, narrower neck should opt for the skinny width, and need to be careful if tempted towards the Jumbo or Southern Colonel styles. Likewise, men with a shorter, wider neck should opt for the broader width and think twice if reaching for the slim line style.
Then, of course, someone like Le Noeud Papillon comes along, who creates the Double Diamond Point:

The equivalent of the Jumbo Butterfly, Le Noeud Papillon  states, "it's hard to say whether it has a genre or whether it has a unique character of it's own which belongs to the year 2014." [LINK]


So, I suppose what we're saying is that the Diamond Point style, as the most versatile, probably matches the more complex man - especially if he is willing to mix and match the pre- and self-tied options during the day or evening. This is what makes the DP one of the more alluring and interesting styles.

 

We shall leave you with this last thought – that the Marlon Gobel Crystal could not have been any other shape and be so perfectly captivating.

It had to be a Diamond Point!

 

Quote: “Classic evolves but doesn’t age. Classic isn’t a style, yet classic is never out of style." - Mr. B's [http://bartlettstudio.com/projects/diamond-point-bow-tie/]

The Series will continue with: the Bat wing, the Butterfly wing, the Jumbo, the Club Round and the Southern Colonel.

Ethos Of The V&A Museum... In A Marlon Gobel Bow Tie!

The tweet read,

"Is this how Marilyn M felt about diamonds? Dazzling chunky Swarovski crystal diamond point bow tie by Marlon Gobel!

To which the Gobel team replied,

"Diamonds can be a guy's best friend..."

This was great! Not only had this designer the great taste to re-create our favourite accessory in a completely unique way, but they had a sense of humour too!

The Marlon Gobel Swarovski Crystal Bow Tie

We BowTieBanditz LOVE this bow tie. The item itself has not been tampered with or re-invented - it is basically an example of the pre-tied style.

But, what a way to out-innovate the most innovative examples of contemporary twists on traditional attire!

In recent years, as men's fashion has really come into it's own, we have seen paper bow ties, wooden bow ties, bow ties in leather and suede. We have seen fabric and leather bow ties, and bow ties with metal studs, swathed in lace or encrusted with pearls or gemstones, including crystals. Non-fabric crystal bow ties do exist, but they are usually brooches, necklaces, pins, charms or pendants.

In 2012, Marlon Gobel produced a unique product for his New York Fall Fashion Week Show "The Heist", which took its inspiration from 'Criminals with Cool' - Bonne & Clyde, Thomas Crown and The Krays.

"The Heist" NYFW Fall 2012

Flamboyant, yet classy, this is a full-sized, fully functional bowtie made from peerless Swarovski crystal elements, created to be worn around the neck with fabric strapping and a secure clasp arrangement. Initially, just 8 were made and featured in the 2012 Fall show.

We're not sure who nabbed the 8th one, either!

Later that year, American Vogue's Hamish Bowles donned one as he attended the 2012 CFDA* Awards (the Oscars of Fashion). But, just this weekend past, one showed up on US TV, worn by an American hero - former Olympic figure skater Johnny G Weir.

 

This got us thinking that this Swarovski crystal bow tie is so much more than it seems!

 

Model, close-up

Visualising a unique design concept

Yes, it is a traditional fashion accessory which, in itself, is enjoying a resurgence in popularity; It is a beautiful piece of gemstone jewellery; It is a wonderful example of contemporary jewellery; It is a remarkable feat of engineering which gives a humorous, if not inevitable, nod to the diamond point tie style, which is also enjoying a bit of a comeback; It is an exclusive and probably hugely expensive item and, as such, deserves to be preserved in perpetuity as an example of all of the above!

When we considered it from this perspective, the obvious question was,

why does the Marlon Gobel Swarovski Crystal Bow Tie not occupy one of the hallowed display cases in the Victoria and Albert Museum?
 

Specifically, the recently refurbished William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery - yes, they of the Bolly champagne dynasty. It occupies rooms 91-93 on the first floor of the V&A museum, and a visit is a profoundly moving experience.

The Exhibition itself tells the 800 year old story of European jewellery from Ancient Greece to the present, and is packed with millions of carats worth of precious and semi-precious gemstones. That this is manifest in the form of over 3000 jewels should tell you just how mind-boggling some of those jewels are!  And there is a wonderful mezzanine section where men's military and civilian dress ornaments are displayed.

Examples of every known gemstone as you enter the Gallery. It's bigger than it looks!

As a consequence of a 4-year refurbishment by Eva Jiricna Architects Ltd., the lighting of the space and casements were transformed to become 'invisible', allowing the gemstones to sparkle without becoming blinding. The casements are now equipped with state-of-the-art fibre optics on the upper outer sides and directional LEDs line the internal case ceilings. The jewels are vertically mounted with an almost imperceptible slant towards the source so that, whilst being optimally lit from the front, they refract the 'invisible' light as near to perfectly as possible... glinting and winking hypnotically, and creating a mood that is dark and dramatic.

Seeing how fabulous these bow ties look with formal attire, I can picture one perfectly placed in an environment like this, which would lend the one thing potentially missing from the cool crystal itself - the possibility of seduction implied by satin and silk.


The Gallery in normalised lighting

The V&A prides itself on being, "... the world's largest museum of decorative arts and design..", keen to acquire masterpieces; showcase a detailed chronological survey of jewellery in Europe; promote the meaning and making of jewellery, as well as various manufacturing techniques.

They have also declared that, "We intend to acquire objects with documented designers, makers or patrons, and which incorporate innovative design or use of material... (including) jewellery in paper, acrylic and titanium, from jewels by the leading jewellery houses of Paris, London and New York... by an international selection of contemporary makers. The gallery explored how jewels have been not only at the centre of fashion, but of the deepest human emotions..." [Link 2] I think we can agree that most people who wear them, have a deeply emotional connection with their bow tie or their huge Swarovski crystals. Perhaps most encouragingly, the V&A state that, "... Adding to the collections of jewellery and gold boxes and watches by purchase and gift is a priority..."

The proof of it is that whilst Hamish Bowles proudly displayed his crystal bow tie on the CFDA red carpet, V&A Senior Curator of the Metalwork Collection, Dr. Richard Edgcumbe, acquired a pair of white gold, micro-set diamond earrings from the Heritage collection by David Morris, the London Jeweller.

The V&A has also forged strong links with the contemporary fashion world and with Swarovski itself. In November 2004, the museum hosted a series of 5 Fashion in Motion: Runway Rocks catwalk shows. Specially-commissioned "Ultimate Runway Jewellery" pieces were created from the design amalgamation of fashion, body ornament and jewellery, innovating with crystal.

Fashion in Motion Jenny Packham.

 

In our opinion, this is an obvious acquisition for the V&A!

 

Acknowledgments: With thanks to Marlon Gobel for their input and co-operation.

 

*CFDA - Council of Fashion Designers of America

   

NYFW Fall 2012 Show: Marlon Gobel "The Heist"